Here now, are 25 of the essential Chinese restaurants in Los Angeles. Chef Kris Yenbamroong’s northern Thai crispy rice salad — made with soured pork, raw ginger, and a generous smattering of bird’s eye chiles — is not for the faint of heart. My parents immigrated to the US from Greece, so a love for octopus is ingrained in me. A great plate can immediately transport me back to childhood summer days spent in tavernas overlooking the Aegean Sea, our table covered in a seafood feast. Enzo Cecconi opened the first location in 1978, bringing "fresh pasta, beef carpaccio, tiramisu, and Bellini cocktails" to the British, according to the restaurant's website.
Jalapeno Chicken
The octopus had a soft texture — no easy feat with such a tricky protein. But the meat was so charred on the outside that it completely overwhelmed the flavor. My drink had a lovely sunny hue that brightened up the very cloudy LA day, with flavors to match. It was a sweet and zingy drink, and the ginger candy garnish was a fun touch. One of the highlights of our lunch was the extremely kind waiter, who highly recommended we get a pizza — which ended up being the best dish of the day.
Beef with Vegetables
Other popular dishes include the cold eggplant salad, lamb tenderloin skewer, and sweet pork pita. Ji Rong is a San Gabriel Valley staple that specializes in traditional Peking duck, which comes with thin pancakes, shredded green onion, julienned cucumber, and hoisin sauce. The duck skin is sliced thinly over a layer of fatty and tender duck meat. The bones are all removed, making it easy for diners to make their own wraps. There are no walk-ins for Peking duck; make sure to call ahead and reserve a duck at least an hour and a half to two hours ahead. Although the Peking duck is the star dish, mapo tofu, stewed pork belly, kung pao chicken, and lamb skewers are also standout options.
Sliced Fish in Szechuan Sauce
Visit the Thai vendors outside of Lax-C — an emporium for Thai ingredients in Chinatown — for a fabulous rendition of julienned green papaya salad with dried shrimp and an unbeatable spicy dressing. This two-year-old Inglewood restaurant fits the bill for anyone craving traditional Jamaican fare. While the atmosphere was as lovely as the service, and we didn't have to wait long for our meal — all important factors in a good "power lunch" — the food just didn't live up to the hype. While it might have been power lunch hour, few people were in suits or business casual. Two very glamorous older women — perfectly coiffed hair, gold jewelry, Jackie O sunglasses — sat across from us.
Steamed Chicken Dumplings (
Standout dishes — including chef Tian’s famed Peking duck which requires reservations two days in advance — are served in a room that feels like a traditional Chinese courtyard from the Qing Dynasty. Red 99 Grill Bistro specializes in Shanghainese cuisine but also has a handful of Sichuan- and Hunan-style dishes on the menu. The signature dish is the red braised pork belly prepared with soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, and other spices; the gelatinous skin and fat melt easily in your mouth.
We now live in a hybrid world, but the "power lunch" is due for a comeback. Kim Ky has been an institution in the San Gabriel Valley for decades, with multiple restaurants spanning even to Orange County. This popular Chiu Chow restaurant boasts a menu that rivals the Cheesecake Factory’s. But real heat-seekers know to ask for the inelegantly named Ringburner, with plenty of chile flakes and jalapenos on top.
Nature Pagoda is a tiny mom-and-pop that has been around since the ’90s. The entire menu is based on traditional Chinese medicinal principles meant to balance the body for optimal health. The quaint restaurant serves traditional herbal teas and medicinal soups, but the star is clay pot rice (bao zai fan), a Hong Kong specialty. The rice at the bottom of the clay pot is crispy, while the interior rice is moist and steamed with ingredients like mushrooms, bamboo shoots, Chinese sausage, pork ribs, and salted fish with ground pork and tofu. There’s an art to making irresistibly spicy food — a skillful layering of flavors that coaxes the very best from chiles and spices. This careful balance of heat enhances every ingredient surrounding it without ever dominating the plate or overwhelming the palate.
Auntie Kitchen
There are three locations, and the newest in San Gabriel offers the most extensive menu of the three. Though it’s known for its Cantonese barbecue, Auntie Kitchen even offers the Hainan chicken rice. That dish comes with complimentary soup, and portions are generous while prices remain reasonable. Xiaolongkan, a well-known Sichuan hot pot chain in China, making in the United States courtesy of the restaurateurs affiliated with Chengdu Taste and Mian.
Sweet & Sour Chicken
Tam’s Noodle House opened during the pandemic selling only frozen Hong Kong-style wontons and dumplings. All the noodles and dumplings are made in-house, including three varieties of egg noodles (wonton-style egg noodles, rice noodles, and flat egg noodles). It uses quality seasonal ingredients, many of which are seafood, and offers plenty of vegetarian dishes. The menu is large and filled with specialties that rotate regularly. During lunch, it offers a la carte items and bento specials that come with soup.
Don’t forget to finish the meal with the osmanthus sweet soup with black sesame dumplings for dessert. Colette offers a variety of rare and unadvertised dishes, including stir-fried lobster sticky rice, lamb stew, and winter melon soup. Beloved dishes like beef chow fun, cola-glazed chicken wings, and salmon carpaccio are also on the menu. Tai Ping Sa Choi Kee is a Guangzhou-based chain specializing in beef brisket noodle soup as well as other Cantonese fare. Those willing to look beyond the surface will be rewarded with a fantastic meal.
Sichuan cuisine has taken the San Gabriel Valley by storm in recent years, but those in the know still head to Hunan Chilli King when they can for lots (and lots) of spice. The name delivers on its premise, with diced fresh chilis living somewhere between ‘garnish’ and ‘the whole meal’ on chopped and sautéed chicken dishes and more. For boneless chicken nuggets fried to a wonderful crisp and fragrant with Sichuan peppercorns, it doesn’t get any better than the Chongqing fried chicken at Xiang La Hui. It’s amazing how the mountain of fried chicken shrinks to a lowly pile of dried chiles and peppercorns in almost no time.
There’s also a slew of offal selections like chicken gizzard, heart, and even bull penis on a skewer. All skewers are accompanied by both spicy and non-spicy powders and sauces. Expect fine dining plus a show, as diners are treated to something like a traditional Beijing opera performance. Hot pots feature premium ingredients like imported fresh seafood and wagyu beef.
Must-order dishes include the hand-shredded chicken and the salt and pepper wings lightly fried with garlic, chopped onion, and peppers. Dun Huang pulls eight different shapes of noodles, from extra-thin angel hair to extra-wide belts. Don’t forget to order a deep-fried flatbread marinated in cumin, Sichuan peppercorn, and dry chile oil.
Cecconi's cavatelli lamb ragù is $14 cheaper, but it's still a very pricey dish, and the flavors just didn't warrant the expense, in my experience. The cavatelli was chewy, overcooked, and only coated with a light layer of the ragù. Served alongside peppadew peppers, which added a kick of heat, the octopus was begging for something to brighten up the plate — whether it be a cooling sauce or a bigger splash of acidity. I had heard there was a secret Cecconi's burger, but our waiter revealed it only makes special appearances (usually during happy hour). I also inquired about the $26 "Piatto Unico" on the menu, which we learned is a lunchtime special that changes weekly and always features a protein, side, and salad. The phrase "power lunch" can bring to mind a vision of stuffy and dated interiors, but I loved the leather turquoise chairs and black-and-white striped floor in Cecconi's dining room.
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